Around The House

Summer is here and those tasks around the house are going to become someone else's responsibility. How do you hire??? Every trade is licensed; electricians, plumbers, heating contractors and builders all have their required licenses. To become licensed a person has to prove how many years they have working in their field and pass a written test. This obviously determines some level of proficiency. That being said, just because they are licenses, doesn't mean they are any good. Check references and be leery of any contractor not listing an address on their business card or paperwork. They know where you live and you should know how to physically reach them. Fair is fair.

First, a little follow up from last week's discussion on contractors and permits. During the course of this week an incident happen which I thought was important. In speaking to one of the local inspectors, he mentioned a job where the homeowner pulled the permit for a project because the ‘contractor said he was too busy' and asked the homeowner to get the permit to help him keep on schedule. Unfortunately the contractor did a poor job and had several violations. The homeowner, being the one who pulled the permit, was responsible for the mistakes. It is not legal (or a good idea) to pull a permit on a job you are not performing. YOU become liable for all its problems. Never pay the bill in full until after an inspection is done.

Another week has past and we hear news reports speak of the summer storms. The Dundee storm was a close miss for our area. Although not the subject of this week's article, a past Around The House column spoke of the new type of weather radios. The Arkansas flash floods came without warning and news reports indicated that if campers had a weather radio, they could have been warned of the approaching danger while they slept. These are a must! Please investigate them and purchase one. They automatically turn on when weather alerts are issued for the county you program them for.

This week, the idea of safety is our theme. There should be a time of year when you remember to check your homes safety items. If you're planning a long weekend Around the House cooking for the 4th of July, let's get our shopping lists in order. This would be a great (and quick) Mom/ Dad/ Son/Daughter task. Put new batteries in your smoke detectors! Make sure they are operational after completed by pushing the test button. Don't be afraid to add a few more. They are easy to install and having them in correct spots will give your family an early warning. The proper time to replace the batteries is not when they start to ‘beep' indicating a battery issue, it is once a year! Proactive maintenance is a must with these items.

While you're at the hardware, home center, or super store take a look at the CO2 detectors. These devices are offered in combination smoke/CO2 detectors or simple “plug in the wall” units. They monitor if CO2 is present in your home. This gas is colorless and odorless, but a killer! Most CO2 problems are heard of during winter with faulty furnaces, but water heaters and other gas appliances, if malfunctioning, can produce the lethal gas. Father's Day is coming, although not a ‘flashy' gift, all the items we are speaking of today are gifts to protect the family and that's what Dad's are all about. They will also give a few hours of Dad/Daughter or Dad/Son time installing, maintaining, and understanding their operation.

Fire extinguishers are also a must around the house. In the kitchen, garage, and basement would be a few suggestions for placement. You have one in your boat, what about your car? We purchased an inexpensive extinguisher just so everyone in the family could take a turn using it. The family backyard campfire might be a great place for family (and friends) to see how they work and the proper way to use them. During our test, a friend was visiting. He knew 'all about' fire extinguishers and how they worked. The first thing was to give advice on how to pull the pin point and ‘fire'. He was also the first to ask if he could try it! Remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question! Foam type extinguishers are available for the kitchen, while dry chemical types would be the choice for a garage. Ask your insurance agent if discounts are available for a safety conscious home.

All of these items are in your campers as well, or should be. Make sure they work in your travel trailer, weekend get a way places, or the grandparents house while visiting. The kids are out of school! Review the Around The House safety rules for them. Burns at the stove, prescription meds left out; does the pool gate lock work? Don't assume anyone remembers the rules! The kids will be at friend's homes this summer. Don't forget the unknown stranger rules as they visit parks or travel between houses. Repetition is remembering! Review them often and let's be Safe Around The House!

This week in Around the House, we will be discussing leaving the house for a long weekend or summer vacation. You can handle the packing list, but lets discuss the ‘leaving the house list'. How many times have you turned around to check if you unplugged the coffee pot or whatever on the trip to the store? We don't want to have these thoughts two hours into our relaxation trip. Consider making a simple list of things to check before you leave.

How long are you leaving for? If a few days, a trusted neighbor could pick up the mail and keep a watchful eye on the house. But if you're going to be gone for several days or weeks, a mail hold should be issued to the post office. This way your checks and general mail will be held at the post office. Don't forget to but the newspaper delivery on hold also. We have all enjoyed the country or suburban life style, and get careless with security. Unfortunately, the criminal element could be local or traveling, just looking for 'easy pickens'. You may or may not have an alarm system; the idea is to keep the house ‘looking' like you are home. This means you hire the trusted neighbor's child to take in and out your trash can. If you always park a car outside your garage, don't park it inside when you're away. Take the garage door opener out of your car, if leaving it outside and make sure it's locked. Set your lights to come on using timers, motions sensors, or dust to dawn sensors to emulate what happens on a normal day when you are home. Make sure the trusted neighbor knows your route of travel and cell phone number. With cell service being what it is, leaving a license plate number would also be a good idea. If you are camping in a remote park with no phone service, a license plate on a vehicle may be a good way for you to be located if an emergency arises at home. The decorative glass ‘bulb' type for watering plants are great. They allow the plant to take water as needed and will be useful not only in a vacation situation but also for everyday use. Turn up your thermostat to cut cooling costs or if programmable, override your program by using the ‘off” or ‘temp hold‘ feature. Your hot water tank also has a 'vacation' setting. These are all ‘list items'. Walk each room and add to the list the items that might need to be addressed when you are leaving. Check the windows; are they latched, are the shades set as usually. The kitchen is the big worry spot. Stove off, coffee pot checked, toasted unplugged….you get the idea. One of the greatest insurance claims during vacations is a laundry washer hose that fails and floods your home. These washer feed hoses are typically screwed to a shut off valve that can be closed. There are washer hoses now available that have a ‘surge' shut off built into them. If they ‘see' a rush of water they close to prevent a flood situation. They are also made for dishwashers. These are a great DYI projects for the next visit to the home center or hardware store. While you're there pick up a 1” x 2” piece of wood (or a large dowel or old broom handle) to cut and put into your sliding door track. Use this piece of wood or wooden broom handle to check the operation of your sump pump. Lift the floating switch or raise the float to activate the pump. Once you have your list, keep it handy. This way when you leave for a few days it's all automatic. You will be surprised how quickly a list can be followed verses jumping around trying to remember the items that need attention. Finally, if you have a gate, locking it will keep unwanted people from approaching your house, but if you only lock it when you leave for several days…obviously this will be a ‘sign' you're gone!

To leave a key or not, this is the question. If you have a family type relationship with the neighbor and want to leave a key, great! If you don't want to leave a key, you have options. I recommend locking all your doors when you leave, even the house to the garage door. You can place a key in a special spot in the garage, and if you have a keypad garage door opener, this code can be given to a neighbor by phone to access your house. This way no one has a key, but if your alarm calls that your sump pump alarm just went off, or you need them to check something, they can access the house. If you don't have a garage or don't like that idea, the home stores sell a ‘key lock box'. These boxes can be locked around a door handle, outdoor pipe, or screwed permanently to the outside of your home in a hidden spot. The code to the box could be relayed to the person watching the home, again by phone. The codes are easily changed if you had to give it out and wanted to change it. That being said, if this is a concern, reprogram your ‘normal' code on the garage door opener to an ‘away from home code' that can be changed when you get home. This way your everyday code can stay your every day code. If you have an alarm with a key fob, leaving this fob in the lock box or with the neighbor also makes it easy for them to access your home without knowing the operation of arming and disarming your system.

We have the house set, but what about your vehicle. How many folks do you see (on the side of the road) with trailers or cars/trucks that have blown a tire? Check them before you leave! The proper air pressures should be listed on your drivers door frame. This is the pressure when the tire is cold or not driven on for a distance. Low tire pressure will cause the tire to run hot. If you stop for lunch or at the rest stop while traveling, touch the tires. They should be warm just after stopping, but not hot. The antifreeze level is usually visible in a clear reservoir. Be careful here, check your owner's manual and don't attempt to add fluid to a hot motor. The cooling system is under pressure and you could be injured. Look for the oil dip stick. Pull it out, wipe it off, put it back in and remove it to read. The stick will be marked for full level. These are things you can check even if you are not a mechanical person. Remember, you're supposed to change that stuff once in a while! The auto store can help you with windshield wipers, most will even put them on for you! Their cheap, so replace often! Finally, transmission fluid, the transmission has a recommended maintenance schedule, check your manual. When I want to check mine quickly for its condition, I pull the stick and look at the fluid. It's supposed to be reddish. If it looks ‘brownish' or smells burned, it's probably time to change it. You want to extend the life of your vehicle, so the proper way to change this fluid is to drop a pan under the vehicle. This way, if a filter is in the transmission it can be cleaned and the pan can be inspected for debris. A multi hour drive might be a great time to fill up and use a fuel injector cleaner. You don't want to break down on your trip and the tires are probably the most over looked item, especially on RV's and travel trailers. You have to check those tires! Enjoy your week Around or Away From The House and have a Great Trip!

We have discussed generators in past articles. The past emphasis was on permanently connected automatic start units which use LP or Natural Gas as a fuel source. These units automatically transfer when the power fails. This article will address portable generators. I try and address questions that have been asked during the week.

With the recent storms, everyone is trying to use their portables. But most did not store them properly and are having difficulty. If you rely on a portable generator for your emergency needs, as soon as you finish reading this article CHECK IT! From today forward mark the calendar to check it monthly and maintain your unit. We have had several calls looking for help this past week because folks could not get their units started. The cost savings in purchasing a portable means ‘you' have taken on these responsibilities. Unlike their larger counterpart, the automatic standby unit, portables do not self test. First, let's hit the basics. Check the oil. Have the unit standing on a level surface. There may be a ‘dip stick' type, or a cap located at the base of the engine block. Usually if on the lower engine block, the cap will have two round ‘nubs' on the screw in plug. The dip stick type will have an indicator mark on the stick. Remove it, wipe it, reinstall and remove it (again) to be checked. If the oil is clean it may be hard to read. Lay a piece of paper towel in your hand flat. Place the dip stick over the towel flat and roll it. This will leave an oil mark on the toweling even with the oil level. This can be used as a reference if you are having difficulty reading the marks on the stick. The plug type is made to be removed with a screwdriver or like tool, inserted between the ‘nubs' and turned. Once the plug is out it is a visual check. Look inside the plug hole, the oil level should be up to the threads for the plug. If below, add oil. Check your manual for oil type. This would be a good time to permanently mark the oil type on the unit with a permanent marker or paint pen. If the oil is dirty, there is a drain plug, usually a square headed plug or protruding pipe and cap from the side of the lower engine block. The amount of oil is listed in your manual, or you can use the dip stick or plug fill levels as a gauge. The oil should be changed yearly or after a multi-hour usage. Checking the oil in all of your lawn equipment is also a good habit to develop before use. Next, give it a pull! Hopefully it starts! If it does let it run for 10 to 15 minutes. If the fuel is old you may want to run it out or drain the fuel. The local farm supply or auto store sell siphon pumps to safely remove the fuel. Follow the directions and put it into a labeled fuel container. It will probably be a small amount. If I have old fuel, I usually mix small amounts into another gas power item until used up. Your local township may have a special drop off for old fuel, oil, etc. If after you add new fuel it still won't start, you may have a clogged carburetor, fouled spark plugs, or filter issues. This may be issues you need to have more knowledge of or ask questions of our technicians, the mechanical neighbor, or local parts store. If you're not sure on how to fix something, ask! We had a customer call using high pressure air to blow out his carburetor fuel line…Ouch! He damaged his fuel float assembly! Luckily we were able to walk him thru a solution and it worked.

Now that we know it starts, let's make sure its working under load. Plug in a large power tool, or even better yet connect it as you would in a power outage. NEVER place the generator in the garage, basement, or any where exhaust fumes can enter the house! This brings to the foreground another subject actively discussed in the past week, how it is connected. There are three ways to use this unit. One is to simply use extension cords from the unit. Second, utilize an outside dedicated plug for the generator, feeding a manual transfer switch. Finally, using a breaker interlock device that prevents the ‘Main' on the panel from being turned ‘On' while the ‘generator breaker' is ‘On'. Most of the panel manufacturers offer interlock devices. NEVER ‘back feed' a panel. It is illegal and could kill or seriously injure you or a utility line worker servicing an overhead power cable. Whenever you install or have one of these devices installed, have a permit and inspection. It makes the installation legal, and verifies that it was done properly. This is one of those items where there is no room left for error. Now the extension cord solution is far from the best scenario. Cords can be an improperly sized, become damaged, and are generally just not good solutions. Pursue the manual transfer switch if you don't have one. You want a ‘system' where you can operate your furnace. Power outages happen in the winter too. I mention this because we had a customer that installed a multiple circuit transfer switch. They were purchasing their own generator. Winter came, and when the power failed he connected their generator, started it, and the furnace would not operate! Why? Portable generators (most if not all) produce a ‘clipped' sine wave output. This means the voltage AC wave form produced by a larger standby or utility company is like a smooth wave of water. It travels up to its peak, then crests, rounds over the top, moves downward. This cycles up and down with smooth tops and bottoms. A clipped wave form crests at the top but is flat at the top portion of the wave. The electronic circuit board in the furnace did not ‘like' the clipped wave and would not operate. So the moral of the story is ……checking your system for complete operation so it meets your needs before you need it! I noticed a problem with a ‘clipped wave inverter' on a recent camping trip. We had no power connection, and were 'roughing it' with the LCD TV and DVD player. An inverter uses battery power to produce normal household current. The LCD audio circuit produced a high pitched tone. This same problem could occur with a portable. Could it damage the TV? You are not provided the ‘quality of power it requires for proper operation, probably. If you're shopping for a portable, all motors are not the same. There are less expensive ‘normal' engine units all the way up to ‘industrial' quality. If you have a sore shoulder, back problem, or other health concern think about purchasing a battery powered ‘electric' start unit. Your health is worth the extra expense! If you go this route or already own one, purchase a battery ‘minder' unit. They plug into an outlet and trickle charge the battery. This will help to insure the battery is ready when you need it. Be Proactive, not a Procrastinator! If you already purchased a unit, maintain your investment. If your considering a portable, this will give you a gauge to determine if a portable or whole house is best for your. Be Safe and Secure Around the House!

In prior weeks we talked about the balancing of your AC system duct work. With the temperature in the nineties I think we can safely say, Summer is Here! The AC is running and the meter is spinning like a top. Although, we all cringe as we open the mailbox and see the electric bill, hopefully this weeks Around The House column will save a few dollars for both AC and non-AC homes.

The simply things are sometimes overlooked. The sun beating in a window will heat anything in its path. The carpet, couch, or tile can radiate that heat. Simply closing the shades can significantly lower cooling bills. If you're not going to be home, close the shades. UV rays can also slowly damage carpet, pictures/paintings, fabric, and wood. Programmable thermostats can also be set to manage your homes interior temperature. These stats can be set to a given temperature and changed by the time of day, being controlled by your alarm system, or even cell phone. Many of us have unpredictable schedules and these products give you flexibility. If you have a second home, these ‘call in' stats are great for both winter and summer temperature adjustments.

Check the seals around doors. More noticeable in winter, but air leakage is air leakage. Look for light coming in around the door. It's easier to replace these seals in the warmer weather. Next the fireplace, are the doors sealed? Damper closed? Air still may leak around this area. Use your imagination. A friend's wife made a quilted mural like cover to insulate against air leakage.

Ceiling fans are great for getting the air moving. Hot air rises, so they help mix the cooler air at floor level with the hot air above. If you don't have fans, installing one may not be as simple as ‘just removing the light' and installing the fan. These units weigh between 15 and 30 pounds depending on size and type. A normal plastic or metal box will not support the weight of these fans. But don't panic! Easy to install fan boxes are available. Several types are available, but they are designed to meet two basic installs. The present box is either nailed or screwed to a joist, or supported between two joists. Use care when working around electricity and heights. Don't do anything you cannot safely perform or do not understand. The power has to be shut off. This is best done at the breaker panel. Turning off the switch shuts off power but could easily be accidentally energized. Always double or triple check this with a known meter. This means test the meter on a known live source, then check the wires involved in your project. Loosen the tab holding or clamping the wires in the box. Do not damage the wires. The box now has to be removed. This is the hard part. Basically, the plan is to not damage the drywall around the box. Its ‘doable', but patience is a virtue. Gently pressing the box up to clear the drywall ceiling, then prying it away from the joist. Yes, I have done a bunch, but once upon a time I did my first. Take your time and don't get frustrated. The box is now floating in the ceiling by the wires. Work them out of the box and remove the box. Now, I like to be prepared for the job at hand, so having done these before I know what to expect. If this is your first time, now might be the best time to go shopping for the replacement box. I say this because you can now appreciate and see what you have to work with. You are going to mount the box thru this four inch hole. If the box was attached to the joist directly, a two part box is manufactured. First, you mount the bracket that holds the box, then the box mounts to it, all through this four inch hole. Open the box at the wholesale or home store. If you remember what you have, you can go thru the steps it will take to mount the box you are purchasing, it‘ll be easier. Let's just say some were designed by people that have to install them, and others were made by someone who thought they had a good idea! The wires go in the box, the box gets attached, and this is really the tough part. If a spreader type bar was used because the box was centered between two joists, then use a heavy duty spreader type fan box mount. Basically it wedges between the joists. The most important thing is to check both joists to verify no wiring is going to be pinched inside the opening. Reach in or use a small mirror to inspect the inner boards. The spreader type bar has sharp points on the ends of a screw type bar. The bar unscrews and forces the points into the joists.

Now for the fan.  Another ‘patience required' part of the project. It helps to follow the directions step by step. If a light came down and a fan only is replacing it, the wiring will meet the need. A 'de-hummer' or quality fan switch will replace the standard switch, and the fan will attach to the existing ceiling wiring. Match using the colors and always attach the ground wire as described in the directions. If you want the replacement fan to include a light consider purchasing a unit with a remote. This will give you control of the fan and light with no additional wiring. Remote 'switches' are available that mount in a standard wall box, so no new wiring is needed. When I purchased my home a fan was mounted without a light in my great room with a vaulted ceiling. There was no way to get wiring from the ceiling box to the wall box without extensive damage (and I do this for a living!). We went with the remote for a light and fan control and have both a hand held remote that came with the fan, and the optional wireless remote wall switch. All available at the home center!

There is another type of fan that is probably past the DYI level. It is a solar powered attic fan. It has to be cut into you roof. Solar powered so no wiring. The idea is to move the 120 plus degree air out of your attic, thus helping cool your house on hot days. These fans are offered in a hard wired design, but this may present challenges in ‘fishing' wires from basement to attic. When operating the fan it pushes hot air out of the attic and draws cooler air from the under eve soffit vents into the space. When installing this type of fan an experienced roofer is the preferred contractor. You don't want a roof leak! This helps to ease the cooling demands on your home by cooling the air in your ‘oven' attic space. Remember the sun screen, hat, and lots of water for hydration on these hot days….So you can stay Cool Around The House!